Wally was a nine-year-old male Persian.  His owner was dismayed because he had recently begun urinating in the house.  He was destroying her carpeting.  Wally had not only missed the litter box several times, but had urinated on the owner’s bedspread, her clean clothes in the laundry basket and the rug in front of the sofa.  Wally was about to get a one-way ticket to dreamland.

House soiling is an unacceptable behavior.  It is one of the most common reasons for owners seeking behavioral advice.  So, what should we do?  Confine him to a room with a vinyl floor and a litter box? Put him on meds for a marking behavior?   Catch him in the act and squirt him with a spray bottle?

All of these things have been suggested for cats with inappropriate urination.  Some of them might make a difference.  The trouble here is that we do not yet have a diagnosis.  A behavior is a sign, not a diagnosis.  We cannot know what to recommend until we have more information.

A behavioral analysis would consist of asking questions to differentiate between a marking behavior and an elimination problem.  What is the volume of the spots?  Smaller spots could indicate a marking behavior.  Larger puddles could mean he was voiding his bladder and thus indicate an elimination problem.  We could go further and ask about time of day, litter box habits and whether he was declawed, but none of these questions would get us very far with Wally.

The key question we need to ask is whether this is a new behavior.  Has he been using his litter box consistently until recently?  The red flag for me is his age.  He is an adult cat.  And either this is a new behavior or the owner has put up with it for seven or eight years.

Any adult animal with a new behavior is a reason for a veterinary visit.

Shall I say that again? Any adult animal with a new behavior is a reason for a veterinary visit.  All the behavior modification in the world won’t help a pet with a physical problem.

A visit to the vet was mandatory for Wally.  The next step was to obtain a sample of his urine.  But, “Here, Wally, pee in this cup” wasn’t going to work.  How does one get a urine sample from a cat?  It can be a tricky procedure to do at home.  One way is to replace the litter in the box with something that will not absorb liquid.

Then, after the cat has used the box, pour the urine into a clean container and refrigerate it if you can’t get it to the vet immediately.  This may be hard to do if the cat is not using the box.  And the sample will not be sterile, so your veterinarian may want to have you bring the cat in to the clinic for a full exam and to obtain a sterile sample.

When we got a urine sample on Wally, it gave us all the information we needed.  Wally had diabetes.  Many signs of diabetes are easy to miss.  Increases in appetite and water consumption are hard to gauge if there is food and water out all the time.  Weight loss can be hard to see on a furry animal.  But inappropriate urination is hard to ignore.  And a simple urinalysis can let us know whether we are dealing with a medical cause of Ruined Carpet Syndrome.

That said, it is also important to remember that patterns of urination and defecation are based on learned habits.  Even if a cat or dog is treated medically for inappropriate elimination, the pet may have learned that it is much nicer to pee inside where it is warm and dry than outside in the rain.  Or he may have developed a preference for nice soft material rather than hard, prickly litter.

I learned this on a very personal level when I lived in a cabin in the woods for two years.  We had an outhouse, which was decorated with pictures and even had a heart shaped seat.  Not too bad.  I liked communing with the birds in the morning.

I realized the power of habits when I visited my parent’s house.  After dinner, I went to answer the call of nature and found myself heading not to the bathroom, but to the front door.  Even though I had eighteen years of experience using that bathroom for that purpose, it only took a few months to alter the habits that led me to automatically head for the outdoors.

So once the medical problem is addressed, be aware that there may be some retraining needed to reestablish good litter box habits.  Let me say here that sticking their nose in their mistake or squirting them with water teaches them nothing about where they are supposed to eliminate.   Make sure their box is in a peasant place and is filled with something they like to dig in.  Maybe even give them some pictures or a heart shaped seat.

If you neglect this, all I can say is “Urine Trouble”.

Mario, a West Highland White Terrier had snapped at a two year old girl.  If Mario couldn’t be trusted around children, his owners would have to get rid of him.

The knee jerk response to this would be to try to modify the behavior of the dog.  Mario’s behavior is definitely unacceptable.  A traditional trainer might punish Mario if he growled or snapped at the girl.  A trainer versed in learning theory might pair the presence of the child with things that Mario loves.  Each of these methods might make a small difference in the short run.  Neither of these methods addresses the underlying cause of Mario’s aggression.  Mario had an ear infection that not only made him grumpy, but hurt intensely when his ear was grabbed.  Even the slightest possibility that his ear might be grabbed sent Mario into his defense mode.   That slight possibility included a toddler coming happily toward him.

If Mario is punished each time the child approaches, he learns to be even more fearful of her.  He may not growl anymore because he has been reprimanded for that, but it will not stop him from snapping or even biting if the child hurts him.  Because of this, I never punish a growl.  This will only take away any warning that the dog is able to give.

Pairing the presence of the child with good things may not help in the long run either, because the pain is still present.  The advantage of this technique is that it doesn’t make the situation worse.

Pain alters behavior.  For most animals, pain will cause a decrease in the amount of interaction they have with their environment.  Lethargy, withdrawal and decreased appetite are all signs that an animal may be in pain.  Most pet owners recognize this, and will make an appointment with their veterinarian if their pet does any of these things.  I am reminded of a cartoon I saw that illustrates this.  A worried owner hovers over a fuzzy form on the exam table.  The veterinarian says “Well, it’s lethargic and not eating because it’s a slipper.”

But what of the “non-slipper” response to pain?  What if the animal defends itself?  Growling, lunging, snapping and biting are all possible responses an animal can have when in pain. Growling is there for a reason.  It is a dog or cat’s way of communicating that all is not well.  It is the time for the owner to stop whatever they are doing and find out why the dog or cat is upset.  Changing the situation can avoid the progression from a growl to a snap or bite.   It is not just giving in to the pet.

Even the sweetest pet in the world can lash out when it hurts. Imagine if you were in a country where no one understood your language.  Imagine that you have been in an automobile accident and the ones there to help you cannot understand you.  Imagine that they are pulling you from the wreck and your broken foot gets caught.  I would imagine the first thing would be to yell in pain.  If they persisted in trying to pull you out, I imagine you might do anything you could to get them to stop.  If screaming (or growling) didn’t do it, you might go so far as to hit or even bite to get them to stop.

Once there has been a painful experience, then just the anticipation of a repeat experience can trigger aggression.  If you have never had an ear infection, you may not understand the full implication of this.  The ear canal swells, and there is no place for the swelling to go.  It is an intense, throbbing pain that radiates to the whole side of the head.

I once had an ear infection so severe that I went to the emergency room.  The physician decided that the best treatment was to insert a wick into my ear to drain the fluid.  As he pushed the wick into my ear with a long metal probe and without the benefit of anesthesia, the pain was so intense that I was alternately crying and fainting.  I wouldn’t do that to a dog.   I never went back to that doctor, and my only regret is that I didn’t bite him.

So, a dog that generally endures a child’s pummeling may not be so accommodating if it is in pain.  Unfortunately for the dog, even when a child is causing the dog pain, if the dog bites the child, it is legally seen as the dog’s fault.  It is up to us to protect our dogs from children as well as the children from the dogs.

Cats are often better at running and hiding than dogs are.  Cats may, however, attack their owners if they become uncomfortable.  One common cause of this is sensitive skin.  Many cats love to sit on people’s laps, and people love to stroke their soft fur.  But the area of the back, just in front of the tail is prone to dry skin and cats with a little extra poundage on them can have a hard time getting to that spot to groom.  If it bothers the cat to be touched there, they may not growl, but send other signs that it is uncomfortable for them.   A slight rippling of the skin or a flick of the tail can indicate that discomfort.  The cat may not really want to move, because it enjoys the warm lap.  All it wants is for the petting to stop.  But if the person is oblivious to those subtle warning signs, the cat may have no recourse but to grab the hand with tooth or claw to make them stop.

Other common causes of pain that can cause aggression come from the bones and muscles.  Arthritis is the inflammation of joints, and that inflammation causes pain.  Arthritis most commonly affects the hips, but it can affect any joint.  Elbows, shoulders, knees and all the joints along the back bone can hurt if touched in the wrong way.

Intervertebral disc disease is a common source of pain especially for long backed dogs like dachshunds.   This happens when the cushion between the vertebrae (the intervertebral disc) degenerates and ruptures into the spinal cord.  The first nerve fibers to be affected are the ones that carry signals for pain, thus the first sign of disc disease is pain.  If the disc ruptures further, then the nerves are damaged, the pain stops and paralysis sets in.  This paralysis can be reversed if treated quickly, which is why it is a good idea not to overlook behavior changes in your pet.

Ear problems, eye problems and dental problems can not only cause pain, but can alter the pet’s perceptions and this alter their behavior.  Are they more jumpy or anxious or non-responsive?  Think medical first, behavioral second. My rule of thumb is that any behavior change in an adult animal should have an examination by a veterinarian.

Louisa Beal, DVM

If you have ever seen a dog or cat with heat stroke, you won’t forget it.  But what if you have never seen it?  What do you look for?  The signs of heatstroke are listed below, however, in an emergency, lists tend to slip away from our memory.  Is it red gums or gray gums?  Lots of salivation or dry mouth?  Thumping heart or thready pulse?

Whatever time you take to go thumbing through a first aid book or googling ‘heat stroke’ means another minute that you pet’s brain and other vital organs are being cooked.

Just remember this:

Don’t panic.

If it is hot and you pet isn’t acting right, get to a vet.

Your veterinarian has injectable medications that can help treat heat stroke.  They can also monitor and treat any injury to the kidneys or other vital organs.  Besides brain damage and kidney damage, heat stroke can trigger a dangerous bleeding disorder called disseminated intravascular coagulation.  Follow up care to prevent permanent damage is important.

Of course, in the meantime, you want to do what you can to shut that internal oven off.  Even if it isn’t heatstroke, these measures won’t do any harm.

• Cool water or alcohol to the paws.  (This is the only place they can sweat.)
• Cool water to hairless areas, like the armpits and belly.  (Don’t use ice or alcohol here.  They can constrict the capillaries and impede body cooling.)
• Fans can help cool the air your pet is breathing.  (Let’s hope this is the air conditioner in the car on your way to the vet.)
• Don’t use ice unless you are monitoring the rectal temperature.  It is possible to cool them too much.  Cooling efforts should stop when the rectal temperature reaches 104 degrees Fahrenheit.  Normal temperature for a dog or cat is about 101 to 102 degrees.

Symptoms of heat stroke include:

• Excessive panting
• Thick saliva
• Increased heart rate
• Depression
• Stupor or appearing in a daze
• Collapse
• Seizures
• Coma

Things to remember:

• Cats don’t normally pant.  A panting cat is in trouble.
• Brachycephalic breeds (snub nose dogs and cats such as Pugs, Bulldogs and Persians) are more susceptible to overheating.
• It isn’t just hot cars in the summer.  Any dog that is active on a warm day may succumb to heat stroke if they become dehydrated.  Pets in cage dryers without monitoring or water can get heat stroke.
• Just because your car is nice and cool when you leave, it can heat up rapidly once the air conditioner is off.  Opening a window is not sufficient.

Prevention of heat stroke is best of all.  Provide shade and plenty of water.  Be aware of your pet’s environment, both inside and outside.  Everything begins with awareness.

I like to consider myself a fairly non-judgmental person.  People may do things to their pets that I think are horrible, but I cannot judge them, since, in the past, I have done most of those things myself.  We all grow and learn and change.

However, there are two things that get under my skin and make me want to slap folks upside the head.  Or at least sting them with my sarcasm.  All of my caring, nurturing and willingness to help simply fly out the window.  I end up jamming my fist down my throat so that I don’t say anything that I will regret.

Number one pet peeve.  “I’ve tried everything.”  Really.  Everything?  Well, I guess there’s nothing I can do now, is there?  No place to go from here.  Thanks for calling and have a nice life.  I suppose what they really mean to say is “I am desperate and need you to help me.”  Okay.  But do they think I wouldn’t help them unless they were desperate?  This is my profession.  I want to help.  Desperation merely gets in the way.

Maybe the underlying message is:  “I’ve tried everything I can think of.”  Better.  At least they give me a chance to think of something.  But it still does not give me much information.   What was tried?   How did the pet respond?  Even if medication was tried with no success, there are many reasons why that might be the case.  What was the dosage?  Too much or too little medication can have unsatisfactory results.  How long was the medication given?  Some medications require a month before full effects are seen.  How was the medication given?  Ear gels may not deliver the needed quantity of the medication to reach therapeutic blood levels.  There is the possibility that a different approach to medication may help.

So, my request is to please give me some information that I can process.  Let me know what has been tried.   Let me know the results.

Number two pet peeve.  “I think he is jealous.”  My first snarky impulse is to say, “Well then, I think you should stop catting around.”  But, I hold my tongue.  I take a deep breath and ask, “What is he doing?”

Jealousy is an emotion that we may or may not be able to ascribe to animals. We may be able to tell if a pet is feeling good or feeling bad, but to assign a nuanced emotion like jealousy is not really helpful.  Are we talking about bitterness or suspicion?   Possessiveness or demanding attention?  Even if I could get the cat or dog to lie down on the couch, I still can’t discuss with them any feelings of abandonment or inadequacy.  I can’t get them to understand that they don’t need to feel that way.  And even if I could somehow communicate that to them, it wouldn’t help.

You see, jealousy isn’t the problem.  It is the behavior that is the problem.  What is the pet doing that you don’t want them to do?   Urinating inappropriately?  Chewing things up?  Tearing things down?  Now those are behaviors that I can address.   Ultimately, it is the behavior we want to change.  And unless I know which behaviors are the problem, there isn’t much I can do.   I often deal with changing a pet’s emotions, but even then, I rely on body language to let me know how the pet is feeling.  Ear position, eye position, body posture and vocalizations are all reflections of emotions.  These are the things we can change.  Jealousy is not one of them.

Well, I gotta go.  I have to feed my cats, walk my dog and water my peeves.

Today, October 15 2009, is Blog Action Day.  Blog Action Day is an annual event that unites the world’s bloggers in posting about the same issue on the same day on their own blogs with the aim of sparking discussion around an issue of global importance.  By doing so on the same day, the blogging community effectively changes the conversation on the web and focuses audiences around the globe on that issue. If you’re interested in finding more information, visit http://blogactionday.org and register your blog now to be part of the largest social change event on the web.  Today, the topic is climate change.  I feel it is the critical issue of our time and I want to put in my two cents worth.

There are three steps to changing the world:  awareness, education and choices. Everything begins with awareness.  Awareness is what brought you to read this blog.  Awareness is what has most likely made you concerned enough to want to do something.  Awareness is what prompts you to make the next step.

Education is the next step.  So there is where I would like to give you some things to think about in regard to your pet’s carbon footprint.  Using up the world’s resources is about what goes in and what comes out.  Let’s look at what goes in, first.

Where does pet food come from?  The majority of pet food is made by companies that produce products for human consumption.  The pet food is a way for them to use materials that can’t go into human food.   These are by-products, and they are listed on the pet food label as “by-products”.   This can be good, since it is good to use everything possible rather than going into a landfill.  But it can be not-so-good if we don’t know what is in the food.  I teach a nutrition section in a veterinary assisting program, and one question I ask my students is “What are meat by-products?”   The correct answer is “I don’t know.”

The other way manufacturers keep the cost of pet food low is to find the cheapest ingredients they can.  This may involve buying ingredients from China.  Not only did this result in a massive pet food recall in 2007, but think of all the miles those ingredients need to travel.  Even when the company imports high quality ingredients like lamb from New Zealand or sea meal from Scotland, these items still have to travel thousands of miles, using a lot of fossil fuels.  Your pet’s carbon footprint can increase by the bag of food you buy.  So what if you decide to make your pet’s food with local ingredients?  It isn’t as hard as it may sound.  Many people cook for themselves.  Cooking for your pet can be just as easy.  Maybe easier, since our pets aren’t as picky as some of us are.  Kidneys?  Sure.  Tripe?  Yum!  Two day old baked potato?  Yes, thank you.  People food is not a bad thing.  Most people eat it.  There are some things to keep in mind, though, if you want to feed your pet a homemade diet.  Cats are obligate carnivores.  They require animal protein in their diet.  Don’t try to make them vegan.  A veterinary nutritionist once told me that the best food for a cat was a mouse, if they ate it all.  It has the muscle meat protein, it has greens all nicely predigested and it has the necessary calcium and phosphorus in the correct ratio.  Keep that in mind when formulating a homemade diet for your cat.  Even though dogs in the wild are scavengers, they also need the correct calcium phosphorus ratio.  Don’t feed them just the muscle meat.  Not only is that not a carbon-friendly food (unless you live on a beef ranch), but also it is imbalanced.  Dogs need vegetables and fiber for vitamins and healthy digestion.

What else do our pets consume?  Very little, compared to a human.  Food bowls, toys, collars, harnesses and leashes, perhaps.  Even these few things can have an impact.   Consider where they originate.  Items made in the US travel less than items made outside the country.  It can be hard to find something that is not made in China, but it is possible.  There are many artisans who make ceramic food bowls and leather leashes.  Toys can be very simple and still fun.  Consider getting stuffed toys from the thrift store.  Just make sure the little swallow-able bits are removed.  Got any old clothes that aren’t good enough for the thrift store?  Braid, them, knot them and make a tug.  You can even make a food puzzle out of a cardboard box or two.

OK, now what happens on the other end of the pet?   We already know that picking up the waste is a good thing and keeps harmful bacteria and parasites out of our environment.  But where does it go after we scoop?  I direct you now to a website that considers all these alternatives.  The Snohomish County Public Works web site has a frequently asked questions section titled Pet Waste Disposal Methods, The good, the bad, and the yucky. This site discusses several alternatives.   So, which is best?   In a plastic bag?  In the trash?  In the toilet?   In a hole?  In the compost?

Which leads me to the third step in the process of changing the world: choices.  We are changing the world simply by being alive.  How we are changing the world depends upon the choices we make.  Choices result from not only how aware we are and how educated we are, but also from our priorities.   For example, if your veterinarian recommends a prescription diet for you pet, you have a choice between following that recommendation and feeding something more sustainable for the planet.  You also have a choice to feed something cheaper and more convenient.  Whatever you choose, it will reflect your understanding and priorities.

I am not here to tell you what choices to make.  Nor should you look at others and tell them what choices to make.  It may be that they are not to the awareness stage yet.  Trying to dictate to them what they should do will most likely backfire and close their minds.  Think of it as changing a dog’s behavior.  Force rarely works well.  You lead by example and reward small increment to the behavior you want.

So, start with yourself.  Become more aware of the issues.  Educate yourself about what you can do.  And make the best choices you can in your circumstance.  Even if the things you do seem small and insignificant, you will never know all the ripples you produce.  Let me close with a quote from one who did change the world.

“You may think your actions are meaningless and that they won’t help, but that is no excuse, you must still act.”  – Mahatma Gandhi

Few of the regular attendees of the AVMA conference were aware of what was happening with Merial, a veterinary pharmaceutical company. Quite a controversy was created when a few weeks before the conference, it was brought to light that the company was using Cesar Millan in promotion of their Frontline and Heartguard products. As you may know, Mr. Millan’s show The Dog Whisperer is broadcast on the National Geographic channel. Mr Millan’s methods have come under intense scrutiny by the veterinary behavior community.

Dr. Andrew Luescher, DVM, PhD Diplomate, American College of Veterinary Behaviorists previewed videotapes submitted to him by National Geographic. The following is excerpted from his report:

“I have been involved in continuing education for dog trainers for over 10 years, first through the “How Dogs Learn” program at the University of Guelph and then through the DOGS! Course at Purdue University. I therefore know very well where dog training stands today, and I must tell you that Millan’s techniques are outdated and unacceptable not only to the veterinary community, but also to dog trainers.”

The first question regarding the above mentioned tapes I have is this: The show repeatedly cautions the viewers not to attempt these techniques at home, so what then, is the purpose of this show? Is it an infomercial for Cesar Millan? I think we have to be realistic. People will try these techniques at home, much to the detriment of their dogs.

Millan’s techniques are almost exclusively based on two techniques: flooding and positive punishment. In flooding, an animal is exposed to a fear evoking stimulus (which sometimes results in aggression) and prevented from leaving the situation until the animal stops reacting. To take a human example, arachnophobia would be treated by locking a person in a closet, releasing hundreds of spiders into that closet, and keeping the door shut until the person stops reacting. The person might be cured by that, but also might be severely disturbed and would have gone through an excessive amount of stress. Flooding has therefore always been considered a risky and cruel method of treatment. What Mr. Millan calls “calm submission”, scientists describe as “learned helplessness”.

Positive punishment refers to applying an aversive stimulus or correction as a consequence of a behavior. There are many concerns about punishment aside from its unpleasantness. Punishment is entirely inappropriate for most types of aggression and any behavior that involves anxiety (see Dr. Jim Ha’s post titled Confrontational Behavior Modification Techniques and the Risk to Owners). Punishment can suppress most behavior but does not resolve the underlying problem; anxiety, fear, and/or aggression. Even in cases where correctly applied, punishment might be considered appropriate, many conditions have to be met that most dog owners can’t meet. The punishment has to be applied every time the behavior is displayed, within 1/2 a second of the behavior, and at the correct intensity.

Dr. Nicholas Dodman, the Director of the Animal Behavior Clinic at the Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine of Tufts University agrees and has said that Cesar Millan’s methods are based on flooding and punishment. The results, though immediate, may only be temporary and can sometimes result in unintended behavioral fallout such as increased anxiety, fear, and aggression.

The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior released two position statements on the use of dominance theory for behavior modification of animals and guidelines for the use of punishment in dealing with behavior problems in animals. These address the problems in many of Millan’s claims about dominance pack order, and how he sets limits. You can download these position statements from the AVSAB web site.

There is a grounding of science in the field of behavior which Mr. Millan does not address in his work with dogs. His methods are based on his own experience and not on science. He calls himself a dog psychologist, but does not talk about basic principles of psychology, such as perception, conditioning, and reinforcement. If he has any knowledge of neurotransmitters and their effect on behavior, he keeps it well hidden. Just stopping an unwanted behavior is not sufficient. It is necessary to teach an acceptable alternate behavior. No amount of drama generated by television show producers or loyal followers change the scientific facts.

For Merial to choose Cesar Millan to represent the veterinary field is akin to choosing a Hollywood star who believes that bloodletting is the best way to treat any medical disorder to represent a pharmaceutical company. His methods are outdated and can be dangerous in the wrong hands.

I enjoyed being at the AVSAB booth at the conference very much though. Not only was I able to educate my colleagues and other attendees about this controversy, but I was also able to show a more effective, safer, and humane alternative. We had videos playing of clicker training being used not only on dogs, but also on cats, chickens, a pig, and a tropical Hornbill. I wonder how well Cesar’s Way would work on those species?

In my next post, I’ll talk about the advances in veterinary medicine that I learned about at the conference.

The American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) held its 146h annual conference in Seattle, Washington from July 11th to July 14th this year. The conference hosted over 200 sessions a day on topics including companion animal medicine, food animal medicine practice management, public health, wildlife, alternative therapies and much more. There was far more than any one person could take in. The other part of the conference was the exhibit hall, with about 300 exhibitors and special interest groups. The exhibit hall is always a big draw for information on the latest developments and cool freebies. So, my point of view is a mere blip on the big picture. I’ll be writing a short series of commentaries on various aspects of the AVMA convention.

The joint scientific veterinary behavior meeting of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (ACVB) and the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) was held on Friday, July 10th, the day before the AVMA conference. I am a member of the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior and these were the sessions in which I was most interested. These are the cutting edge topics ranging from case presentations to basic biochemical research on mediators of behavior. This meeting also allws the behavior community to get to meet new people who work with behavior, get to know people we have only met online and to touch base witht hose friends we only see at these meetings. I will write more in the future about some of the specific topics that were covered.

The general sessions of the AVMA also have a behavior track. There are may veterinarians who do not have a behavior practice, but still need to know the basics of behavior and when to refer their clients. These sessions include topics on learning theory, puppy socialization medication that modify behavior, genetics of behavior and controversial issues. I am focusing on the behavior sessions at the AVMA because that is where my greatest area of interest lies. My day job is counseling owners on behavior problems of dogs and cats. There is a lot of misinformation about animal behavior floating around and my goal is to help people understand that there is a science behind the recommendations from veterinary behaviorists and veterinarians with a special interest in behavior. So much of my time at the conference was with the AVSAB booth in the exhibit hall.

In my next articles, I’ll be talking about the AVSAB booth. The joy. The controversies. What they loved and what they didn’t. To be continued…