Pit Bull Thoughts
My colleague Christine blogged recently about herding with her Aussie, Conner, and about dogs’ instinctive behavior as modified by human breeding decisions. She mentioned the frequency of dog-dog aggression among pit bulls. This topic has been on my mind lately, and frankly, I’m getting angry.
A very nice woman contacted me recently about bringing her dog to my flyball class. She asked if she could come and watch. Visitors are always welcome to watch my classes before deciding whether to sign up; I encourage it! So she brought her dog with her yesterday to watch class. In her introductory email, she described him as a terrier mix, about 40 lbs and muscular. I wrote back and said it sounded like he had some pit bull in him, and that this was not a problem for me, and she didn’t need to hide it. She responded that he must also have some other terrier in him, as well as pit, hence her description.
She brought her dog in before class started while I was working on go-outs with my Border Collie. He did indeed appear to be some kind of multi-terrier mix, with clear pit bull presence, and was a little shy but sweet with me. We then let the dogs meet and play, and after a few minutes, Mellie discovered that she had found a friend who would chase her; she loves this. They zoomed around quite happily together.
Then I heard a car door; someone had arrived for class. Just as this happened, the poor terrier suddenly realized he needed to poop. He had a little diarrhea, so there was quite a mess to clean up and his owner was rushing around with paper towel and enzyme spray trying to get the floor clean. I looked out the window and realized that the new arrival was my assistant. I knew she would have her recently adopted reactive dog with her, so I opened the door to call her not to bring him into the building, as there was a strange dog in here.
My excuse is that I had not been feeling well for a couple of days, and also had been in a horrible traffic jam on the way to my first class, so I just was a little ruffled. But really, I just dropped the ball and I feel terrible about it. In any case, when I opened that door, I forgot for a moment that the visiting terrier was loose and his mom’s hands were full of poopy paper towel! The terrier rushed out the door and made a beeline for my assistant’s leashed, reactive dog. My assistant’s dog immediately became defensive, and lunged and snapped while the terrier just chest slammed him. The situation escalated, with the terrier circling and lunging, dodging the human hands that were trying to pull him out of the melee. It took several very, very long seconds to lay hands on the terrier’s collar and pull him away. His behavior during this episode is what I can only call “gamey.” “Gameness” in a hunting terrier is the determination to get the prey no matter what, and to come back with twice as much effort if the prey tries to resist. Unfortunately, in dogs bred to fight other dogs, that gameness is turned on dogs: If a dog resists, the terrier’s response is typically “you and what army???” And that’s what happened here. I shouldn’t have been surprised… but this dog had just been playing beautifully with my own dog, and I was surprised for the first few seconds.
We let the terrier watch the beginning of class and sure enough, by now he was high as a kite, screaming and lunging to get to the running dogs. After a while, his mom put him into the car. I was just getting to the point of suggesting this when wisely she did it on her own.
I set my students to doing some calming exercises and went to talk to the terrier’s owner. She had teared up and was trying to recover her composure. I told her that her dog was not ready for a flyball class. I mentioned that he was “gamey” and she had never heard that term. She was not really clear on what she was seeing; I spelled it out for her. I said he was a very nice dog, who had good dog skills when he was not aroused, and was obviously smart and charming. I suggested that some very low arousal classes (no running or jumping!) made more sense so he could get better at ignoring other dogs in a class situation before we increased arousal in a sports class. She agreed, and took her dog home.
I’m angry! She adopted this dog at about six months. The pit bull ancestry, the terrier background, is unmistakeable. Yet no one explained to her what that might mean genetically. No one ever told this very kind woman what “gameness” was, What kind of behaviors he might start exhibiting at one to two years of age. What this might mean for her, for his life, for the old dogs he lives with.
Shelters, rescues, and breed advocates who continue to insist that all bad pit bulls are a result of bad owners who teach the dogs to fight, or who abuse them, are doing a terrible disservice to pet adopters. I see many clients with pit bulls or pit mixes who actually have no idea that there is a genetic basis for gameness (toward traditional prey or toward dogs). Who believe that by loving their dog and never abusing him, they can guarantee he will never be one of those “bad” pit bulls you read about on the news.
Plenty of dogs have plenty of behavior problems, and “terrier gameness” is not the worst of them. However, it’s predictable, and the amount of mythology about it is intense and emotional. People who adopt herding breed dogs should always be educated about what can go wrong when a dog is really smart, or really driven to chase moving things, or extremely concerned about guarding things. People who adopt terriers should always be educated about gameness, and about what can go wrong if the dog turns his “you and what army” feelings onto other dogs. In fact, in an ideal world, everyone who buys or adopts any dog should be educated about how real dogs behave! They need to hear that real dogs may eat poop, bite people, guard the sofa, kill cats, chase skateboards, or fight with other dogs. That some of this behavior is very hard-wired and fixing it can be hard!
The pit bull problem is just one aspect of this, but it is a big one because there is an active campaign of disinformation about this breed type. Plenty of people love them anyway and make great owners because they are prepared, and have backup plans, and are good at management and training. They’d rather have some gameness or dog aggression than, say, a dog who has a heart attack when you drop a metal pan on the floor, or who is so visually prey-driven that he has to be on a leash forever; and this is a perfectly reasonable choice. It’s just that it should be an educated choice, and far too many owners are not given the option of making an educated choice because someone is eager to hide the truth. The truth is that some pits and pit mixes are going to become dog aggressive. Know that in advance. Make wise plans.



November 24th, 2008 at 5:06 pm
I adopted a 3 month old pit/lab mix 2 months ago. This is my first dog, ever. I really want to do the right thing but I don’t know where to get good information on Pit bulls. Do you have any recommendations?
November 24th, 2008 at 10:29 pm
Hi Danielle,
First, I assume your dog came from a shelter or rescue organization, and I want to thank you for giving this little guy (girl?) a chance at a good life.
Now some things to think about. First, how sure are you that you are correct about his mix of breeds? Is this the shelter’s best guess, or did someone actually see both parents? Since Labs are so common in this country, a lot of shelters will decide “must be a Lab mix” if it’s the right size and doesn’t bear an obvious resemblance to anything else. You may end up surprised by some physical or behavioral development as your pup matures (maybe she will turn out to be terrific at herding ducks… or pointing ducks!).
Second, the good news is that often by mixing in another breed, you can cut the chances of your dog inheriting the tendency toward strongly gamey interdog aggression. This is no guarantee (just as being pure fighting-bred pit bull is no guarantee the dog will fight), but it changes the odds.
True pit/Lab mixes are often really super friendly, nice dogs. Both breeds’ natural tendency is toward horribly inappropriate, over-friendly greetings of both people and dogs (especially when young). Both are very social (typically) and have very small personal-space zones. This will annoy some people, almost all herding dogs, dogs with pain issues, and quite a lot of other dogs as well. So teaching your guy really super self-control starting very early is a good idea! If you make a rule that he NEVER gets to greet ANYONE of ANY species unless he is first holding a sit or walking (by his choice) on a loose leash with a flat collar… he will learn how to offer more polite, unaroused greetings. This will pay off in spades as arousal on greeting is a huge cause and trigger of interdog aggression problems in greeters AND greet-ees.
You’ll want to watch for signs of aggression toward other dogs. Know what “hard eye” looks like. If other dogs don’t want to play, do the right think and remove your party animal. Find him some well socialized, friendly adult dogs to play with ASAP — these are the ones to teach him good grownup dog manners. If you see play starting to tip over into fighting, you’ll need to start really limiting free play with just any old dog; dogs who tend to do this (play turns serious) don’t belong in dog parks or day cares. Really work on being able to call him out of play over and over and over. (A quick treat and being sent back to “go play” works great to reinforce this skill.)
BADRAP, a California Pit Bull advocacy organization, has some good information on its website, http://badrap.com.
Finally, a super resource is the DVD called “Dog Talk.” The presenter is Donna Duford, a wonderful trainer, and in the DVD she narrates about the behavior shown in both still photos and videos of dogs interacting. There are lots of kinds of dogs and, because she works with a large municipal open-admit shelter, there’s lots of pit bull images. This is nice because you get a good explanation of what “overaroused,” “fearful” and so on look like on this particular breed.
Finally, do not be sucked in by people who tell you that you must outmuscle your big strong dog to show him who’s boss. Most pitties are ridiculously people-friendly, but if yours has limits, this is not a dog you want fighting back. You will lose. And your dog will learn that fighting back works. It is a death sentence. Find puppy, adolescent and adult classes where the trainer is familiar with teaching good self-control and self-calming. If you can find someone in your area teaching a Control Unleashed class, see if that person also teaches puppy or obedience, because she is probably someone who “gets” how to install self-control in a very upbeat, positive, effective way.
Finally, don’t panic. If you are not sure what you’re seeing, ask someone with experience. Some dogs sound like they’re killing each other when they are playing. Serious fighting is silent. Some fighting for fun is loud and things get muddy here. If it’s silent and/or someone gets hurt, you have a problem — get help. Other than that, you probably have a wonderfully bright, funny, friendly, athletic buddy — enjoy!
-Greta Kaplan, CPDT, CDBC
January 25th, 2009 at 11:15 pm
so would you say that jack russells are typically “game” as a breed as well?
February 13th, 2009 at 11:30 pm
Shirley, Jack Russells (Parson Russells, Russells…) are all over the map, just as pit bull types are. I have met some incredibly game ones and I have met others who actually hated fighting and would keep it short and sweet. I have met a few who would do anything to avoid fighting, too. Gameness certainly exists in the breed, though. As should be obvious, a huge difference here is size. Jacks typically don’t have the bulk or jaw strength to do nearly as much damage as a 50+ pound pittie!